We arrived in Chau Doc at 7:00 pm and checked into the classic colonial Victoria Chau Doc Hotel A lovely property. Having traveled long and far we decided to dine in the hotel. The food was okay and a pricey for what was offered. On the other hand, our room was huge with beautiful dark wood floors, a nice walk-in shower and a comfortable king sized bed. At 5:00 am I was awakened to the melodic call of prayers from the Mubarak Mosque across the river from our hotel.
After a quick traditional Vietnamese breakfast we boarded the Victoria Speedboat for a pleasant 5 hour trip up the Mekong to Phnom Penh Cambodia.
When we crossed into Cambodia the Captain lowered the Vietnam flag and raised the Cambodian flag. Soon we arrived at immigration control. The Visa cost per person is $33 US cash. A current passport photograph is required. The border crossing process was slow but painless, thanks in large part to the Victoria’s agent on board the boat. For entertainment while waiting I watched a hen teaching her chicks to fend for themselves, making a big show of scratching earth to turn up insects. One smart chick got it, looking at the others with confusion when they followed mama and waited for her to do the scratching. I figured they were the roosters to be and the quick study was a female.
The Victoria is not the cheapest speedboat available for the trip, but worth the extra money. The boat was comfortable with a nice well maintained bathroom. Refreshments were provided including muffins, tea, coffee, colas and water. Conde even snagged a beer. It was a fun way to travel from Vietnam into Cambodia.
We read a lot about Phnom Penh, much of which was not flattering. Lonely Planet put the fear of god in us, warning against theft and highlighting a story about a French woman who was dragged from the back of a moto and killed when thieves tried to snatch a bag with a long strap hanging from her shoulder. As we got off the boat we braced for an anticipated onslaught and gathered our belongings close by.
It turned out the process turned out to be was easy and calm. Nothing threatening about it. We immediately found a Tuk Tuk and negotiated the driver down from $6 US to $4 US. Negotiating is part of the culture and is a matter of pride for all. Conde still reminds me we overpaid by a dollar.
The Tuk Tuk took us directly to the Plantation Hotel A very cushy and comfortable property.
I never fully recovered from the flu and had a nasty relapse. My health wasn’t going anywhere but down. I contacted my US doctor who recommended a broad spectrum antibiotic. This was available without a prescription in Cambodia. The Phnom Penh story is Conde’s as my version consists of drawn curtains and the bed at the Plantation Hotel. Oh yes, and a short walk to the pharmacy dogged by Conde with a camera. (Spoiler Alert: the antibiotics worked and I am 90% human again).
Conde’s favorite restaurant find. Go figure.
A rooftop bar with a sweeping view of the city.
A few street scenes.
Phnom Penh is filled with French colonial buildings. There are tree line boulevards and lots of parks. As we drove through the town on our way out we saw what appeared to be a blossoming arts culture and beautiful museums and buildings worth noting. No doubt few days here would be time well spent.
The Plantation Hotel arranged for a driver to take us to Seim Reap. He arrived promptly at noon, as requested. The cost was $85 US for the 4½ hour drive northwest. The car was a spotless newer model Lexus SUV. Our driver a quiet, shy Cambodian man with a delightful sense of humor. He anticipated our needs before we could voice them. We couldn’t have been happier.
The area between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap is largely agricultural. Lots of cows, family farms and water buffalo wallowing in mud ponds. The countryside offered lots of candy for the eyes.